VietNamNet - At the beginning of the year, Vietnamese people flock to pagodas and temples to pray for health, happiness, luck and prosperity in the year ahead.

So heading off to pray for a year of tranquility and good health for my family, I head to Quan Thanh temple, at the beginning of the causeway between West Lake and Truc Bach.

As one of the four guardians of Thang Long citadel, the temple honours Huyen Thien Chan Vu, more commonly known as Tran Vu, the warrior-god in charge of protecting the Dark Heaven.

Legend has it 1010AD, when King Ly Thai To moved the capital to Thang Long, he entrusted Tran Vu as the guardian of the north, defending it against demons and evil spirits. To show appreciation, the king and pilgrims cast a four-tonne statue of the warrior-god in black bronze in 1677AD.

The statue bears a square face, long beard, untied hair and bare feet. He sits on a stone stage exorcising the phantoms with his left hand while his right hand clasps the handle of sword.

The statue expresses the unique skill and arts of Vietnamese traditional bronze casting handicraft and sculpture three centuries ago. Besides the main figure, there is a smaller bronze statue said to be Trum Trong, the foreman who directed the casting process.

Entering the temple through a narrow corridor, you can see a bronze gong from the 17th century hanging down. The gong, which bears an image of the moon, mountains and a forest, is said to make sad people smile and ignorant ones more intelligent.

The fragrance of incense smoke pervades the air. The sounds of a bell ring over the entrance. It is a truly peaceful setting.

But I have a second destination, the Tran Vu temple, which is located on the other bank of Red river in Thach Ban commune, Gia Lam district, on the way to Bat Trang pottery village.

It’s rather difficult to see it from the road as the temple is hidden behind a pagoda but the temple has a unique structure with the front dedicated to Tran Vu and the back dedicated to Buddha.

Tran Vu temple is much smaller than Quan Thanh temple in the city but both temples honour Huyen Thien Chan Vu with a big black bronze statue. Here a 9-tonne statue of the warrior-god built in the 18th century resides.
The statue is considered a masterpiece of Vietnamese sculpture from the Tay Son period. This is the second biggest bronze statue in Vietnam, the first being the Buddha Amitabha statue in Ngu Xa pagoda, Ngu Xa village, Ba Dinh district, Hanoi and the third being the Tran Vu statue in Quan Thanh temple, although the statue in the Tran Vu temple is more detailed and decorative than the others.

It is said the temple was built with local residents money and according to the keeper Luong The Tang, during the time of Japanese occupation, to protect the statue from a metal collecting campaign, pilgrims covered up the statue with paper and red lacquer to make it look like a wooden statue. Thanks to them the statue still stands today completely preserved.

From the beginning of Tet till the first full moon of the first lunar month, people have to stand in line to make their offerings here.

I prefer to visit temples when they are quiet and peaceful but I dare not break the habit of a lifetime and so even on New Year’s days I’ll join the crowds. It’s a small price to pay for a new year of peace, health, luck and prosperity!

Where is the Tran Vu temple?
Ngoc Tri village, Thach Ban ward, Long Bien district, Hanoi
Out of Hanoi drive over Chuong Duong bridge, turn right on the road to Bat Trang ceramic village, go on for 5km along Red River dyke. The temple is located on the left hand side, behind Chua Ngoc pagoda.

(Source: Time-out)